For two years amid the Gaza war, every festive public event for Christmas were called off within the city of Bethlehem in the occupied West Bank. This city is where Christians believe the birth of Jesus occurred.
However, after a recent truce, the holy city decided that this year the festivities would make a comeback, as symbolised by the lighting of its traditional, giant Christmas tree before the ancient Church of the Nativity.
"We have endured two difficult years of silence; no Christmas, no employment, no work," remarks the city's mayor Maher Canawati. "We're all living here on tourism and the tourist trade had fallen to nothing."
The mayor acknowledges that the idea of resuming celebrations was not without controversy, given the ongoing hardship within Gaza β including for members of the small Christian population, many of whom have family ties in Bethlehem.
"Some may say it's not appropriate while others contend it is fitting," Mr Canawati explains. "But deep inside my heart, I felt that this was the correct action to do because the Christmas season should never be stopped or cancelled. This is the light of hope for us."
Residents β from both Christian and Muslim faiths β pose for selfies before the tree hung with red and gold baubles in Manger Square. They are joined by a handful of international visitors.
Vibrant lights now decorate the streets with signs advertising holiday markets and children's parties.
"We're very happy to have the tree, first of all, and to welcome visitors in Bethlehem and to be able to observe the holiday in its authentic spirit," comments Bethlehem designer Nadya Hazboun.
"This place is where everything began, so this is where we can send a message globally about what really Christmas should be about. And this year, if Christmas is peaceful, then I hope it will bring a nice message for the entire world."
Nearby towns of Beit Jala and Beit Sahour are also planning to illuminate Christmas trees soon. Local hotels β which have stood largely empty for two years β are seeing a rise in reservations from Palestinian citizens of Israel as well as some foreign visitors.
A visitor from Russia, Angelica, is on her second pilgrimage to this region. "In my view everyone needs to come at least once in their life," she says.
"I hope a lot of people will return soon as it is sorrowful with few tourists. The only thing that is positive is there are no long lines β you can come and see more things. When I came before you had to wait in a queue for a few hours at least."
Currently, the gift shops dotted around Bethlehem have little business, and near the cream-coloured walls of the Church of the Nativity, which originate from the 4th century, tour guides largely stand idle. Before the Gaza war, it was typically packed with visitors.
"This is a tourist city; without tourism there is no livelihood," laments a guide named Hamza. "We aspire to have people returning as in the past: from European nations, the Middle East, America, Latin America and all over. We start with the Christmas tree lighting, and then we will wait."
Over the last two years, unemployment has skyrocketed in Bethlehem. Following the lethal Hamas-led attacks in southern Israel in October 2023 that sparked the war, tens of thousands of Palestinian workers from the West Bank region have been prevented from entering Israel and its settlements for work.
Meanwhile, public servants have received only partial wages by the Palestinian Authority (PA) β that administers parts of the West Bank. The PA relies on tax income gathered by Israel, which it is withholding β to the tune of 1.76 billion dollars, as reported by a UN agency.
Israeli officials state it is holding the funds due to the fact that the PA makes financial payments to Palestinian prisoners that incentivise violence against Israelis. The PA β facing international pressure to enact reforms β claims it has recently changed its social welfare system.
The grim economic outlook implies that for many Christian Palestinians, even though there are now public festivities in addition to religious ceremonies, it will constitute an austere Christmas.
On the periphery of the square, some patrons wait to purchase sizzling balls of falafel from a row of shops.
"We're preparing for the holiday following one of our hardest periods as a Palestinian people and as Christians," says one restaurant owner, who runs Afteem, a decades-old family restaurant which has seen its revenues collapse. He notes lately many families could not even purchase falafel β a cheap, traditional snack.
"Christians will try to celebrate but based on their situation," Mr Salameh anticipates. "An individual wishing to take his kids to a festive event or a show or similar, they lack the funds to expend for this celebration."
Within the grotto at the base of the Nativity Church, a resident accompanies a tour group from India, stooping down near a silver star that indicates the location where it is said that Jesus was born and lighting a candle nearby.
With tensions still high throughout the area, Bethlehem residents say they are praying for peace β and wishing for tourists to come back to the location which is thought to be where Christmas started.
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